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West of Ankara
At Gavurkalesi, 60 km from Ankara on the Haymana Highway
near Derekoy, the remains of an open-air Hittite temple, a
tomb and two reliefs of Hittite gods can be seen. The most
important Phrygian sites in Anatolia are to be found in the
provinces of Ankara, Eskisehir and Afyon. Yassihoyuk
(Gordion), 105 km southwest of Ankara on the Eskisehir
highway, was the capital of Phrygia and the place where
Alexander the Great cut the Gordion Knot to gain the key to
Asia. The tumulus of King Midas, who turned whatever he
touched to gold, can he visited here. Nearby, the remains of
the ancient city Gordion, still under excavation, and a small
museum are worth a quick tour.
Off the same Ankara-Eskisehir road is Ballihisar
(Pessinus), an important Phrygian religious cult center. The
most important remains are those of a temple to Cybele, the
mother goddess whose worship was at the heart of the Phrygian
culture. The small open air museum has some interesting
sculptures and tombstones. |
At Midas City two enormous facades cut into a rocky
promontory once held cult statues for the worship of Cybele in
their niches. Throughout the area, rock tombs - cave- like
openings pierce the sand colored stone. An underground passage
leads from the site to the valley below. Aslantas and
Aslankaya were both centers of cult worsoip in Phrygian times.
The former, 34 km north of Afyon,has two monumental lion
reliefs the latter, 52 km from Afyon,comprises a temple and a
lion relief.Other Phrygian monuments can be explored at
Doganlikale, Kumbet and Deveboynu.
Eskisehir was founded in the first millennium B C. on the
banks of the Porsuk River by the Phrygians. Significant
architectural monuments include the 13tn century Alaeddin
Mosque and the 16th century Kursunlu Complex. All four of the
city museums are worth visiting: the Archaeological Museum has
Phrygian objects and sculptures from the area; the Meersohaum
Pipe Museum displays pipes and other objects made of
meerschaum;the Yesil Efendi Ottoman House Museum a fine
example of 19th century domestic architecture,houses a
collection of local ethnographical items and fireplaces for
curing meerschaum;and the Ataturk Culture Museum has a
photographic exhibition of Ataturk's life, a number of
personal effects and a display of items made of meerschaum.
The world's best meerschaum, a soft white stone, comes from
mines in the area surrounding Eskisehir. Pipes and other
objects can be purchased in the city souvenir shops. A
spring-fed lake, Sakaryabasi, surrounded by beautiful
parkland, draws many visitors who want to enjoy the fresh air
and eat in one of the fresh-fish restaurants.
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 Sivrihisar's charn derives from its many typical
Ottoman houses which imbue the town with a faded elegance. The
13th century Ulu Mosque, formerly a caravanserai, and the
Alemsah Mausoleum are very interesting and worth a visit.
Connoisseurs of carpets and kilims will know that kilims from
Sivrihisar are particularly prized. Near Sivrihisar in
Nasrettin Hoca Village (Hortu), the Nasrettin Hoca Museum has
ethnographical displays as well as amusing stories and
pictures about the famous humorist.
 On the hillside above Seyyit Battal Gazi stands the
imposing 13th century mosque and tomb complex built in memory
of the "warrior of Islam", Seyyit Battal.
 Yunus Emre Village (Sarikoy) is the burial place of
Yunus Emre, the great 13th century poet. His poetry lives
today, its message of love and humanity as relevant as ever
Commemorative celebrations are held in the town every May. In
addition to his grave, visitors can see a small museum
dedicated to his life and works. |
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