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Edirne
Selimiye Mosque |
On the border between Greece and Turkey,
Edirne was for some years the Ottoman capital, and in the 18th
century one of the seven largest cities in Europe. On a
verdant plain of poplar trees near the junction of the Tunca
and Meric Rivers, this graceful historical city welcomes
visitors as they make their way to Istanbul and other points
east. The people of the Edirne area trace their origins beyond
the rule of the Macedonians. The Roman emperor Hadrian rebuilt
the city and renamed it Hadrianople arter himself. With the
division of the Roman Empire, the Byzantines claimed Edirne
and in 1361 Sultan Mural I added it to his empire.
Its position for almost 100 years as capital of the
Ottoman Empire accounts for its many historically and
architecturally important buildings. With its mosques,
religious complexes, bridges, old bazaars, caravanserais and
palaces, Edirne is a living museum.
The Selimiye Mosque is the city's focal point. Occupying
the top of a hill, Sinan's design reflects the classical
Ottoman style. Built on the orders of Sultan Selim II,
(1569-1575) it testifies to the technological abilities of the
day and the genius of the Ottoman's master architect.
Built between 1403 and 1414 by Mehmet I, the Eski Mosque
is the oldest Ottoman structure in Edirne. The white marble of
the portal contrasts with the building's cut stone and brick
masonry. Calligraphic inscriptions of Koranic verses decorate
the interior. |
The Uc Serefeli Mosque, built between 1438 and 1447 by
Mural I, presages the great period of Ottoman mosque
architecture under Sinan and embodies both a new freedom from
restraint and advances in engineering. The northwest minaret
has three galleries, hence the mosque's name and was the
highest minaret until those of the Selimiye Mosque eclipsed
it.
Towards the end of the 15th century, Beyazit II
commissioned the architect Hayrettin to build him a complex in
Edirne which includes a mosque, Darussifa (hospital), medrese,
kitchen and store rooms. The mosque is square in plan and
covered with a deep dome; over 100 domes roof the remainder.
The most important of the other buildings is the Daruissifa
which stood out in its time as a modern hospital with a unique
and humane architectural design.
Little has changed in the Kaleici section of Edirne since
the Middle Ages. Narrow streets lined with houses wind through
the area. The number of small restaurants and cafes reflect
the district's renaissance.
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Sinan built several of the famous baths in Edirne
including the Sokollu, Tahtakale, Mezit Bey, Beylerbeyl and
Gazi Mihal hamams. His work is also seen in the Ahmet Pasa
Caravanseral and the Rustem Pasa Caravanserai of 1561. The
last has been renovated and serves as a charming hotel. The
old bedesten of the early 15th century still functions as
Edirne's main market. As you drive around the area you should
notice the many lovely Ottoman bridges which grace the Tunca
and Meric Rivers.
Edirne has retained many of its colonful traditions and
customs. Every summer where the Tunca River divides an emerald
green meadow is created called Sarayici, where the Kirkpinar
Greased Wrestling Contests are held. Shiny, slippery bodies
grapple to determine who will emerge as champion.
As you walk through the city and peer into the corners of
the grocery stores, you see blocks of white feta cheese, a
local speciality. Hardariye, another of the city's delicacies,
is a grape drink mixed with mustard and marzipan. Scented
soaps, earthenware pots and straw baskets from Edirne make
good souvenirs. You will find it dirticult to resist the
beautiful embroidery work of the local women.
The Archaeological and Ethnographical Museum traces the
history of the area from prehistoric to Byzantine times and
exhibits clothing from the late Ottoman period. At the Turkish
Islamic Art Museum examples of Ottoman architectural details,
calligraphy, manuscripts, Korans. weapons, glass and an
imperial tent used on military campaigns are displayed.
On the way to the Saroz Gulf in the Aegean Sea, you can
stop at uzunkbpru to see an interesting bridge spanning the
Ergene River, nuilt by Murat II in 1444. Its 174 arches. the
highest of which is 12.28 meters, make up its 1354 meter
length. The mild climate and beautiful surroundings on the
Saroz Gulf invite holiday makers for a break of relaxation.
Whether here or in Edirne, the hotel and guest-house
facilities are plentiful and reasonably priced.
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